Apple Pest Elimination

 If you’re trying to grow food organically, this post is for you!

Last fall, I talked about the The pest that’s ruined our apple crop six years in a row: the apple maggot. In my experience, apple maggot renders your apples pretty much inedible. And in spite of dedicated application of a pest eliminator for organic gardens—beneficial nematodes—the problem just got worse.

The nematodes were costing about $45, to apply twice a year. The application and extra watering needed also took many hours.

In October, after yet another disappointing harvest, my husband John and I came up with a new plan to see if we could actually grow yummy apples again.

Now, we’ve had our ups and downs with homesteady-type strategizing…it seems like this or that family issue or health setback or higher priority project will always knock our best-laid plans off track. But John and I were really determined to turn our apple crop around.

I posted our very Simple apple maggot elimination plan…

And I’m happy to say that for once, we stuck to our plan! Here’s what we did:

*A thorough apple tree pruning in late winter and early spring.

*Skipped the nematode plan entirely.

*Thinned our apples on time, in June.

And gritting our teeth, we employed the extra plastic and…

*Got out the Ziplocs!

Apples zipped up in Ziplocs

Now, each apple is (hopefully) safely enclosed in a bag.

Nature also gave us an unplanned assist, one good, one definitely not…

Our unplanted areas (I won’t call it a lawn, it’s just weeds!) have been filling with clover! I understand clover attracts the kind of tiny wasps that prey on apple maggot. So, it’s a wonderful development!

Now, the not-good: The bear I mentioned last month did his share of apple thinning on our Williams Pride tree. The lucky thing is, he didn’t hit the other trees. 

Our Akane apples, our first tree to harvest, will be ready around the first of September. I’ll give you a report then! 

If you have any strategies for managing orchard pests sustainably, I hope you’ll share…just visit me on my Web site !

Orchard Management, Part 2

Lots of bushy growth from late pruning

As I mentioned last week, John and I have slacked off on proper orchard care the last few years.

I’m not sure how it happened—sure, the weather didn’t always cooperate, and there were the usual family commitments, chicken care, or a million other chores that took precedence. But the fact remains, our apple trees were neglected.

We’d gotten behindhand in two basic ways: pruning and thinning.

Pruning is essential. Apple trees in our climate grow an insane amount each year; lots of our trees grow five or six feet each, with lots of bushy interior growth. Yearly pruning helps open up the middle of the tree—much easier when it comes to picking, for sure!

Pruning ideally should take place during the dormant season, when the tree hasn’t yet started its spring growth—in our area, February is recommended.

The problem is, we’ve gotten a fair number of northeasters in February, making it a challenge for even the hardiest of gardeners to get into the orchard!

But we can’t use wintry weather as an excuse. John and I have often not gotten around to pruning until as late as April. Or even May. And one spring, I think it was three years ago, we didn’t prune at all. The trees turned into monsters! And were that much harder to manage the following year.

Anyway, when you prune a tree in mid- to late spring, it only encourages the tree to grow even more. And you wind up with a bushy tree that is putting its energy into producing leaves, not high-quality fruit.

Pruning, as it happens, works in concert with thinning.  A bigger tree produces more blossoms, which in turn means more potential fruit. A smaller, neatly trimmed tree will naturally have less fruit set.

But you’ll still need to thin. Without it, you’ll generally wind up with a tree that will overbear one year, and the next, produce little or no fruit at all.

Thinning also will help you have larger, healthier fruit, instead of the smaller, even stunted fruit that you’ll often find on an overbearing tree. John and I have also erred in thinning way too late, in mid-summer instead of early June, when the tree has already put oodles of energy into hundreds of apples, instead of dozens.

The rule of thumb: thin your apples to keep about 5 inches between fruits. Apple trees will often set fruit in multiple clusters of three, four, five or even more apples per fruit spur. So make sure to select the most vigorous little fruit in the cluster, and remove the others.

Given this neglect, John and I have often wound up with overgrown, overbearing trees. Which has led me to suspect it may have something to do with our apple maggot problem. It seems to me that with less fruit to attract the maggot flies, Berryridge Farm won’t be such a target-rich environment.

As an aside, the same goes for the neighborhood bears! Without so much fruit at our place, maybe they’ll be less tempted to break down the fences and go on an eating binge.

Back to apple maggot: the photo below was taken the first year we found the damage. At the time, I thought it was terrible! Come to find out, these bits of brown were minor--many of our apples will now have brown tracks and some mushiness all the way through the interior. 

One chore you can do to help this fall: go through your orchard and pick up all the little fruits any tree dropped over the summer. That means less food for the maggot larvae that are living on the ground below the tree.

Years ago, I read about protecting your apples from this pest by diligently enclosing each and every apple in a Ziploc bag. At the time, I sorta cringed. All that plastic! All that time!

But as much as I don’t want to go the plastic route, I’m ready. It’ll certainly save money on buying nematodes. And maybe we’ll be able to reuse the bags.

To sum up, for our nine apple trees, here’s our plan for 2023:

1^st: We’ll prune in February, as orchardists recommend, to maintain smaller, less bushy trees.

2^nd : We’re going to take a pass on nematodes this fall. It’s been too dry to apply them, and soon it’ll be too cold. We’ll apply them only in spring and see how it goes.

3^rd : We’ll thin the fruit early—when the fruits are the diameter of a quarter—to give the tree a chance to put its energy into producing larger fruits, in smaller numbers.

Then we’ll bite the bullet and get out the Ziplocs!